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Monday, July 12, 2010

3 years later, and it's still hot as heck...

You would think that after three years I'd be used to the heat. No. Sadly this Washingtonian will never be totally used to heat. Last week I came back on the night train from Baku, and had to take the "plaskcart" which is like a train wagon with 50 beds in it, three to each wall. The windows don't open, there's not privacy, and you really need to watch your stuff carefully with so many people around you in an open compartment. However, I had no other choice but the plaskcart, because all the train tickets were sold out, and I'm not allowed to travel at night by bus or car (Peace Corps safety rules.) So, it was the hot night train. It was so hot the moment I walked into the car, that I couldn't breath. I was sweating before I even got in, but by the time I had sat there on my bunk for about 2 min I was soaked. By 4am I was so dehydrated that I was nauseous. This is gross, but I vomited twice in the train bathroom from the heat. I had to stand in the corridor by the toilet just to get some air from the cracked window.

Strangely, most people here talk about how you can die from the cold. "Don't eat ice-cream, or drink cold water, you'll get sick from the cold." Or my favorite, "Don't sit in front of the fan or the air conditioner, it will make you sick to be cold." But for me, I just can't take the heat... and there’s not kitchen to get out of. I am constantly having to explain that I'm from a "cold place" and that where I'm from we get sick from the heat. It's almost comical how many times a day someone tells me not to do something involving cold in 100+ degree temperatures.

Two weeks ago I went to visit in-laws in Naxchivan, which is the landlocked island portion of Azerbaijan. It's detached from the main land, but landlocked in the three other countries (Turkey, Iran and Armenia). The heat in Naxchivan is unbearable for a Pacific Northwester like myself. During the middle of the day, it's so hot that no one goes outside. About mid day you hear the sound of children’s voices stop abruptly as they head inside to retreat from from the heat. Even my mother in law's cats come home to get out of the heat. At night, it's a stale heat, no breeze to even move the heat around. Without a fan, or air conditioner, it's truly impossible to sleep. I'm not really sure how people avoid heat stroke who have to work outside in those kinds of temperatures. It was actually hotter than the month I spent in Arizona in August. So, if you’re from a colder region, or don't like heat, I'd honestly suggest that you come visit Azerbaijan in October when the weather is both beautiful and cool enough to breath.

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