Culture Shock and Thanksgiving

Well this last week was my first ever Thanksgiving without the family. Oddly enough, I had three to celebrate counting our joint thanksgiving in Baku with the embassy.
It was an interesting holiday, as I cooked for all my new friends the first unassisted thanksgiving meal. I ended up preparing the food in the dark for the last 35 min or so when the power went out. We had a lovely dinner by candlelight, and we all sat at the table. No, we didn't say what we were thankful for; as it was pretty obvious we were all just grateful to be able to celebrate at all. I made way too much food, but everyone was glad of it nonetheless.
Our second Thanksgiving dinner was provided for us by a local organization called Ganja Agro-Business Association. They were very kind by making us hot dogs, cold cuts, and turkey done kabab style. It was cute, and very funny. We ate outside in the cold November air, as the business didn't have space for so many people to eat inside. It was kind of them none the less to try to welcome us with some of out own traditions.
I did experience a bit of culture shock this weekend though, and I think it was due to the start of the holiday season and not being around my family. Yesterday, my host father had a client (he is the local veterinarian) with a Doberman puppy. He was asked to dock the ears so that they would point straight up. I thought it might be interesting to see a little of how it was done... however, I hadn't bargained on them doing the surgery without any anesthesia for the dog. I will never forget the sound of that poor dog crying. I wish I were able to speak enough language to ask them why they didn't put the dog to sleep to perform the procedure. The best I could muster was "why puppy isn't sleeping?" to which I was told, "too much sleep is bad." I am now a firm believer in cosmetic procedures for dogs as being cruelty to animals. Part of this gut reaction I'm having comes from the differences in the way animals are viewed here. In America, it is all too common to hear people equating their pets to the status of a child. Here, animals are viewed as food, and more often than not, too dirty to touch or have inside. They just don't think about animals the same way that we do. That is a difference I just have to recognize. I don't have to like it, or accept it, but recognizing the difference is key to understanding the culture.
My second culture shock came last night when I went to a performance of the local orchestra. My younger host sister "Nushu" (Sabina) plays the violin, and her teacher had a performance that she got free tickets to... so I was invited and accepted happily. I was not aware of the cultural differences in audience etiquette here. Everyone was talking during the performance, unwrapping bags of food, and making a lot of noise. I couldn't believe it! This is behavior that in America would get someone kicked out of a performance, and here these people are performing through babies crying, children fighting, elderly women with hacking coughs, women talking on their cell phones, and conversations going on everywhere. I felt so frustrated I just wanted to stand up and say "stop being rude! They are performing and I can't hear!" However, something told me that would quickly earn me the reputation of "crazy foreign girl" and chose to just sit quietly and try to enjoy the last of the performance.
December is almost here, and the weather is really getting cold in Ganja. Yesterday we had our first "scheduled" power and gas outage. We of course were not told ahead of time, but once it happened citywide we found out it would last about 7 hours. Needless to say it was very cold yesterday. Things are going all right, and I still find it hard to believe I've almost been here 6 months. Time seems to go so fast sometimes, and others so very very slow. I hope you all had a great thanksgiving as well, and I will do my best to let you know what is going on come Christmas.

Thanksgiving!

Last night was the celebration with the US Embassy and Peace Corps. It was a good experience seeing everyone for the first time since they moved to their sites. We all had a good time eating traditional foods, and I was finally able to cook some good foods in a really nice kitchen! We stayed the weekend with embassy employees, and used their kitchens to cook for the pot luck style thanksgiving. I brought roasted garlic mashed potatoes, pumpkin pie, and a cranberry peach dish.

I had a nice time finally getting to sleep in a real bed, with an actual mattress. I was more grateful for the chance to take an actual shower with real water pressure, and hot, truly hot water! I also go to call home for 20 min from an embassy phone (free call!) and talk to mom for a "thanksgiving" call. The only downer to the whole weekend was coming into Baku my bus got a flat tire... which meant I had to wait an additional 3 hours for them to change the tire. But, we made it, and the rest of the weekend was fantastic!

Things have been going good with work, the move, and integrating into my community. This weekend I was also able to find some art supplies for my community art enrichment project, that will hopefully enable me to do some crafts with the students in my club. I will also be starting a book club in December, and am hoping to help advanced level English students work on their English reading comprehension. Lots going on with work, and the season is starting to turn truly cold! Rumor has it that we may get snow in Ganja, so if that happens I will take some good pictures for you all!

Ganja F-Y-I

Ok, so how about a little information about my city? Since lots of you have more than snickered at the name, I figure it's time for a little education about the lovely city of Gence (pronounced Ganja).
Gence is Azerbaijan's second largest city (pop apx 300,000). Located on the Gence river, the city was rebuilt in the 12th century after an earthquake in 1139 destroyed the original town that was founded in the 5th century, east of its current location. In 1918 Gence was the provisional capital of a briefly independent Azerbaijan. The name 'Ganja' is not drug related... it originates in the Ganjak tribe. The city was re-named Elisavetspol from 1804 to 1918, changed back to the name of Gence in 1918 until 1935, when it was renamed Kirovabad. It reverted once more to Gence in 1989.
The road from Baku to Gence is one of the country's most scenic. The area is famous for the Kapaz mountain and the 7 lakes near it, particularly the Goygol - the blue lake. The territory is perfect for swimming, hiking or for a pic-nic. (Unfortunately, if you are a foreigner like myself, Goygol is currently closed to you. However, Xacikend is lovely, and very close by with just as scenic places to pic-nic).
The city was the birthplace of many poets and is considered the country's literary centre. People in Gence are generally well educated. Not surprising considering all four state, and two private higher educational institutions function in the city with 24,000 students enrolled per semester.
With ample streets and avenues and well designed parks, Gence is more aesthetically pleasing than most Azeri towns. The city retains a strong German influence in its architecture.
With a vast main square, the city has its fair share of Soviet architecture, some of it quite good, like the grand city hall with its immense colonnade. Lenin's statue is now gone from the main square, but the city retains a lot from previous times, both in architecture and in character. (Incidentally, the main square now holds a statue of the former Azeri President H. Aliyev).
Although most Christians are now gone (Armenians, Russians and Germans) there are several churches worth a visit: a ruined Armenian church in the south of the town, the Alexander Nevski church (now the puppet theatre!) and a 19th century orthodox church. Another local historical treasure is the bottle house, a two-storey building decorated with about 50,000 glass bottles!
Although it is similar in size to Tacoma, Gence is a relatively quiet city. Unfortunately, with all its modern conveniences, and many wonderful historical sites, the city offers very few places to eat out. There are three larger restaurants in town, where women are welcome to eat and usually the food is quite nice. As for local entertainment, the best that I could recommend is generally when events come to town such as concerts or the circus (currently in town, and very good might I add!)
I hope that this gave you all a little more background on the city I am currently living in!

In order to provide a more historical context, a majority of this information was gathered from the following site:
http://www.travel-images.com/az-ganja.html

Azerbaijan says it foils attack on US Embassy

Reprinted: By Simon Montlake
from the October 31, 2007 edition
http://www.csmonitor.com/2007/1030/p99s01-duts.html
Christian Science Monitor

Authorities in Azerbaijan say they have detained a group of heavily armed Islamic militants who were allegedly plotting an attack on the US Embassy in Baku, which closed Monday in response to the threat. The State Department in Washington said there was "specific and credible threat information," but gave no further details.
The detained men were described as being Wahhabis – a Sunni Muslim sect that originated in Saudi Arabia – and their ranks included an Army officer who had supplied assault rifles and grenade launchers, Reuters reported Monday. It quoted a spokesman for the National Security Ministry, Arif Babayev.
Babayev said that part of the militant group was detained at the weekend in the village of Mashtagi, near Baku, including the military officer, who had recently gone absent from his post.
"It was established that the group ... had four Kalashnikov rifles, one Kalashnikov grenade launcher, 20 grenades, rounds and other automatic weapon parts," Babayev said.
The British Embassy in Baku also closed Monday over "local security concerns." The Associated Press reported a statement by the National Security Ministry that the arrests had prevented a wider terrorist plot against national and foreign targets.
"That prevented a large-scale, horrifying terror attack that was being prepared by members of this group against several state structures in Baku and embassies and missions of the countries which are members of the international anti-terror coalition," the ministry said, adding that other members of the group were being sought.
Azerbaijan is a largely secular Muslim republic on the western shore of the oil-rich Caspian Sea. British oil giant BP operates two large oil and gas export projects in Azerbaijani waters that supply energy markets in Western Europe, the Financial Times reported Tuesday from Moscow.
Azerbaijan, with its population of 8m, is a predominantly Muslim republic with borders with Iran, Russia and Georgia….
The arrests come at a time when Azerbaijan is enjoying economic growth of more than 30 per cent amid a growing oil surge.
However, poverty remains widespread. Human rights groups say Islamist religious groups are gaining influence, particularly among the poor.
Azerbaijan's relationship with neighboring Iran may have been the focus of a recent visit to Baku by Central Intelligence Agency director Michael Hayden, Eurasianet.org, a specialist website funded by the Open Society Institute, reported earlier this month. General Hayden met Azerbaijan's president, Ilham Aliyev, on Sept. 28 during what US officials said was a regional tour to discuss security and international terrorism.
Some local analysts believe the US wants to use Azerbaijan as a base for a possible military attack on Iran, according to Euroasianet.org. It also cited Ilgar Mammadov, an independent analyst, as drawing a link between Hayden's visit and the trial of a pro-Iranian militant group.
A preliminary hearing for the government's case against the 15-member group, named after its leader, Said Dadashbeyli, took place at the end of September in Baku, the Turan news agency reported on October 1. Group members are also charged with high treason, illegal arms possession, illegal contact with foreign intelligence services, robbery and other crimes.
The Ministry of National Security alleges that Dadashbeyli, an Azerbaijani citizen, worked with radical Islamic organizations – as yet not publicly named – and Iranian intelligence agents to set up a state with Shar'ia laws. A military group, dubbed the Northern Army of Mehdi, was allegedly formed by several of the defendants, prosecutors allege. Prosecutors also claim that one of the group's members, Jeihun Aliyev, traveled to the Iranian holy city of Qom, where he was offered money by Iranian agents. The money was to be used to mount a propaganda campaign designed to undermine Western and Israeli influence in Azerbaijan.
Earlier this month, Iran hosted a summit for states bordering the Caspian sea, at which leaders from Azerbaijan and four other countries pledged not to allow their territory to be used for attacks against fellow littoral states, Asia Times reported. Russian President Vladimir Putin was among those attending the summit, which played down the issue of disputed national boundaries in the oil-rich inland sea.
Jamestown.org reported last year that Azerbaijan may have been overstating the risk of a possible Al Qaeda attack in Baku as a way of currying favor with the US government. After 2001, Azerbaijani authorities arrested and extradited several foreign militants to Middle East countries. Six Azerbaijani were jailed in 2005 for allegedly plotting terrorist attacks against national and foreign targets on behalf of Al Qaeda. But the government's claims that Baku was a prime target for foreign terrorists should be treated with caution.
Recent trends show that local radical organizations pose more of a danger to Azerbaijan than does al-Qaeda. Yet, the Azerbaijani government is trying to connect the surge of local radicalism with the influence of al-Qaeda. There are several reasons for that. First, the country's regime is trying to show the United States its loyalty concerning the war on terrorism. Thus, the sentencing of al-Qaeda "members" was done in order to demonstrate the activity of Azerbaijan's special services.
Secondly, by exaggerating the danger from al-Qaeda, the Azerbaijani government is trying to portray itself as the one and only pro-democratic force in a region dominated by anti-Western religious extremists. For many years, the current regime in Azerbaijan successfully sold this propaganda, often depicting outbreaks of social unrest as the work of Islamic extremists….
Compared to other Muslim countries such as Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Turkey and Pakistan, al-Qaeda will have a hard time influencing and recruiting local Azerbaijanis for suicide terrorist missions. Furthermore, up to 75-80 percent of the population is Shiite, to which the ideology of al-Qaeda is hostile. Finally, a majority of the mosques, where al-Qaeda usually recruits its followers, are under tight surveillance by the Azerbaijani government.
After gaining independence from Soviet rule in 1991, Azerbaijan fought a war in a disputed breakaway region, the British Broadcasting Corp. reports.
As the Soviet Union collapsed, the predominantly Armenian population of the Nagorno-Karabakh region stated their intention to secede from Azerbaijan. War broke out. Backed by troops and resources from Armenia proper, the Armenians of Karabakh took control of the region and surrounding territory.
In 1994 a ceasefire was signed. About one-seventh of Azerbaijan's territory remains occupied, while 800,000 refugees and internally displaced persons are scattered around the country.

On Life and Living

"Never let the fear of strking out keep you from playing the game."

Sometimes in life the most rewarding opportunities we have are also the most difficult challenges we face. I know that most of you think I'm insane for even coming here to begin with... but you stood by me and supported my choice to leave. Now that I'm here, many of you want me to come home. Understandably, you are worried about my safety. Please let work things out here. I'm not a little girl anymore. I'm smart enough to make decisions for myself... please just trust me one more time. I am working with peace corps to increase my safety and my wellbeing at site. I love you all, and I will keep you posted once I know what's going on.

"World's Oldest Woman" Lives In Azerbaijan

The world’s oldest woman, a 127-year-old living in the former Soviet republic of Azerbaijan, attributes her longevity to a clean and pure environment and the warmth of her family life, Azerbaijani news agency APA has reported.

Bayaz Xalilova has five children, 28 grandchildren and 47 great-grandchildren. Her oldest child is 80, and the youngest is 60. Xalilova has always lived in her native Gadabay District, nearly 400 km west of the capital Baku.

"In my region, the air and water are like cures for illnesses. Had I lived in Baku, or other cities, I would not have not lasted so long," she said in an interview with the agency. Xalilova is also happy with Azerbaijan’s current government. "We had a very difficult life in Soviet times. Today’s government is nice. It cares about the people," she said.

Editor’s Note: Source: Azerbaijani news agency APA, Baku, in Azeri 1201 gmt 26 Sep 07
Reposted from: http://www.eurasianet.org/posts/092707.shtml

I'm FINALLY "Home"

This is the view from my new bedroom window! I'm all moved in and thought you might like to see where I'm staying. I am officially a Peace Corps volunteer now, as I swore in on Thursday last week. I moved to my permanent site on Friday and have been settling in for the last week. Everything is going well here. I like my site, site mates, co-workers and my host organization and family. Everyone here is so nice!! There is plenty for me to see and do here since I’m in a bigger site than most volunteers. So I have been keeping myself busy meeting new people and exploring town. I also now play softball with my site mates since the volunteers here have inter-city tournaments. (I know, me playing sports… scary huh?)
I received mail yesterday for the first time in my new site so I know that the address works properly. It took just under two weeks for me to get mail, as the post office here is an international one. So don’t worry about me getting the letters anymore, I will hopefully be able to send out a few more now that I have a post office that is used to international mailing.
Things are going well at work; I’ve just started so I’m still doing a lot of the initial observations and learning how things here work. I’m fortunate enough to have several co-workers who speak English along with a director that also speaks English.

OK, so since I've now received a billion and one messages asking for items I would like sent I will include a "wants" list since I don't really NEED anything at all. I love letters most of all, so if you want to write me, I think postage is only 90 cents or something like that...

"Wants" (please don't spend a fortune sending me these things, none of them are necessary and I can live perfectly content without all of them, but none the less these are wants... stuff I miss from America or would use here)

-Instant oatmeal (I like plain, peaches & cream, and strawberries & cream, but will eat any flavor) or other dry non-perishable foods (nuts, noodles, instant rice, etc)
-Crystal light packets (the little single serve to go drink mix you add to water or anything like it, generic is fine! I only drink water here)
-Hand sanitizer (if you send please seal in zip lock, as they explode sometimes during flight-- no public bathrooms have soap)
-Books, games, dvd (burned copies don't get stolen in customs), anything entertaining
-Clothes (I'm no longer a 2XL, I'm now just an XL as I've lost 8 kilos since I got here (about 17 lbs) so any T-shirts with American writing or pictures on them (people love that stuff)
-Pocket tissues, toilet paper, or anything of the sort since we have to buy our own, and it makes great packing paper (will roll it up myself so no worries)
-Any instant mixes that you add to water/milk etc (ranch, gravy, Campbell’s soup in a pouch, stroganoff mix, etc)
-White board markers
-Clothes pins (just one or two in a box is fine, as I wash what I wear every day to keep things from piling up)

But most of all, letters are great. I miss you all, I'm doing fine. Work is going all right, and the new site is much cooler in temp than Sumqayit was. I will do my best to keep you all updated as much as possible. I now have 119 pics up on my myspace account for those of you on myspace you are welcome to check them out.

Peace Corps Volunteer To Be!

This week was challenging and bitter sweet. I finally said goodbye to the kids from my english conversation club as we held our finally meeting. (That's them above, posted with their consent and knowledge). We had a tough week with policy and language tests, packing, and preparing to move to our final sites. It's sad knowing I will leave behind all the friends I've already made as I head out to my new town... I will fortunately still have site mates, but sadly one less than what was anticipated. One of my friends chose to go home due to personal reasons this week, and I miss her very much. (I wish you the best of luck wherever life takes you hun!!) I swear in on Wednesday, and will spend the last part of the week traveling to my permanent site.

I have posted my new address on the side of the page, so if you would like to send me letters I would be greatful to have them! I will do my best to keep you all updated as soon as I find a reliable internet cafe at my site. I miss you all, and I'm doing great. Please continue to pray for my safety and success in my site! So the journey begins...

"And now Harry let us persue that flighty temptress, adventure!"

Hotel mistakes Nobel laureate for bag lady

She was wearing a Mayan dress, the traditional attire of indigenous people in central America, and the hotel's response was also traditional: throw her out.

Staff at Cancun's five-star Hotel Coral Beach appear to have assumed this was another street vendor or beggar, so without asking questions they ordered her to leave. Except the woman was Rigoberta Menchú, the Nobel peace prizewinner, Unesco goodwill ambassador, Guatemalan presidential candidate and figurehead for indigenous rights.

The attempted eviction, an example of discrimination against indigenous people common in central and south America, backfired when other guests recognised Ms Menchú and interceded on her behalf.

The human rights activist was in the Mexican coastal resort at the request of President Felipe Calderón to participate in a conference on drinking water and sanitation and was due to give interviews at the hotel.

David Romero, a journalist and newsreader who was due to interview her for state radio Quintana Roo, told local media that hotel security tried to eject Ms Menchú from the lobby. They relented when told who she was. It was said not to be the first time a hotel has tried to throw her out.

Ms Menchú, 48, was awarded the 1992 Nobel peace prize for protesting against human rights abuses during Guatemala's brutal civil war.

Commentators noted the irony of upmarket resorts discriminating against real Maya while trying to attract tourists with fake Mayan architecture and spectacles.

==
This article was reposted from the following location:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/international/story/0,,2150467,00.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rigoberta_Mench%C3%BA

Rory Carroll, Latin America correspondent

Friday August 17, 2007 The Guardian

If you are asking "why is she posting this?" Perhaps you are unaware what the tourist industry is doing to developing nations and third world countries... in my short time in Azerbaijan, I have already seen the effects of american culture here... from american music videos and food products, to american brands and advertisements. It is not necissarily a bad thing... but it can have negative impacts when what it shows the world is that money is the only thing that matters. This just goes to show that we need to show the world that there are more important things than making money. Everyone here asks me why are you here? How much are you making? They can't understand the concept of volunteering. The language doesn't even have an actual word for volunteer. The closest word means "from the heart." For many, money is motivation.

Life has so much more to offer... I'm not here to make anyone rich financially. There are things in this world that bring more joy than money could ever buy. I am just beginning to figure out how I can teach the world to give these things. Every person deserves to have a happy and rewarding life... it's just ironic when those like Ms Menchú who have devoted their lives to fighting against human rights abuses are the victim of the very same thing they are fighting to end.

My hat goes off to you Ms Menchú. Wherever you are, know there those of us scattered across the world trying to follow in your footsteps...

All The Small Things

Some of the things I find myself missing the most about America are things which I would never have thought I would miss... OK, mostly.

Things I Currently Miss the Most
1. Seat Belts, Speed Limits, and Paved Roads
2. Refrigeration on a consistent basis
3. Variety in my diet
4. Public Garbage Cans/waste management systems
5. Knowing what is happening in the outside world

OK so maybe not all that surprising, but they are all things I no longer take for granted. Some of these things are a lot more important to me than I thought they would be. It is ironic how we never truly miss something until we don't have it anymore. Basic "necessities" are not consider such everywhere in the world, and it us not even thought of as an inconvenience for people here. Ignorance is bliss. (I am not by any means saying people are stupid, I am saying that they don't know any other way of living, so therefore do not question why things are the way they are.)

Also, I can say it is now safe to talk about Harry Potter to me in letters/emails, as I finished the book within 48 hours of receiving it. I was more than pleased with the outcome, and must say that if you haven't already finished it you are in for a treat. Good to know my theories were largely accurate. (Thanks to all the pals at www.mugglenet.com)

So, this weeks downer: my iPod is fried... I think. It won't charge, and it won't play, so I think it is gone for good. Luckily I only paid $65 for it. Now I am relying on my disc man, meaning I'm eating my way through Energizer Lithium AA batteries. (BTW: I don't usually product endorse, but these batteries really are the best I have ever used... I get 10 times the play time with them, and my digital camera is still on its first set after 2 months.)

Highlight of the week: I finally have a nalgene bottle again so I can boil water, and I got the worlds best package from Mom! Thanks Mutti! Also, I am getting letters from people, slowly but surely, from James and Michael, Heather, Marie, Uncle Carl and Aunt Drea, Mom and Grandpa. Thank you guys, they make the world of difference when I get no other contact with home! I have also written letter to the family and many friends... so be patient...

Most interesting thing I have done this week: I went swimming yesterday! It was fairly hot, so the host family decided to go visit other relatives... my host sisters and I went swimming in the evening and then chowed down on some fresh peppers, bread, and sausage! I'm taking it easy on the food here, as I've now had food poisoning a few times. I just have to be careful where I get the food from, and how long it has been since a power outage.

Aside from that, everything is going well. I am please to say that I now have less than 4 weeks before I swear in as an offical Peace Corps Volunteer, and can't wait to get to my site! If you have any questions, and have yet to ask, please send them via Snail Mail to the address on the side of the page, or to my email at Raechelle.Watkins@gmail.com

I will do my best to write you all again soon, and post a few more pictures next time!

Always and forever,
Raechelle

Site Placement

Ok so yesterday was a very big day for us in the Youth Development and the Community Economic Development sectors since we found out where we will be spending the next two years and what organizations we will be working for. Unfortunately, for security reasons I can not disclose my towns name. However, I can say it is a large city, with constant electricity and running water. I will be working with a youth leadership organization that helps to positively impact young men and women by helping to improve their english and leadership skills. The organization aims to help students participate in study abroad programs. I'm very excited that I will be working directly with youth!
I also will have fellow volunteers in my community ("site mates") so I won't be too terribly home sick... except for mom's cooking :)
I posted a few pictures up on my myspace and facebook sites for those of you who want to see what it looks like here. Message me if you need to be added as a friend to gain access to the photos.

Ok, so I'm not the best at updating...

Ok, I find out where I will be spending the next two years this afternoon... in about an hour. So I am excited and a little nervous today. I also wanted to just let you all know that things are going really well here. I have done a lot since I got in country, and will try to give you a brief run down of what I have been up to:

1. Language Classes six days a week

2. Peace Corps sessions in Youth Development training

3. Peace Corps hub days were we learn all sorts of stuff, and we get shots...always with the shots.

4. I went on a hike on a very beautiful "mountain"

5. I spent a weekend in Barda, which was very hot.

6. I have been working on hosting an english club once a week with fellow volunteers in my training site.

7. I have been sweating my butt off! It's really hot here!

Ok, so that was lame, but to be fair, I do have to leave soon :)
I love you all, and will update you again soon! Next time a real one, I promise!

Azerbaijan!!

Hey everyone! Just wanted to write a quick note from the internet cafe letting you all know I am safe. I can't disclose the location of my site for safety reasons, but I am able to tell you I am in the East at the moment. We've been busy with training for the last 10 days, and I am finally at my host family site, and doing well enough to tell my family "I like fruit." They think I'm funny, which helps. I have a host mom and dad, and two sisters about 13 and 14 years old. I also have a host aunt that is 22 and is able to communicate in a little english to help me say important information. I have some letters to send out, but the post office here doesn't have envelopes or stamps currently and it will take a week for them to get supplies. I got your package marie! Thanks for making me the first one to get one, it makes you special when you get them. I love mail days. Everyone please write me letters! I also have a cell phone, but I can't call the US with it because it is so expsensive. I'm 12 hours ahead of washington state, so if anyone wants to pay the 3 bucks a min to call me (or buy a calling card) my phone number is 011-994-50-753-8426. I will answer if you call regardless of time. I can also receive texts from all networks besides verizon. I will write you all soon when I am in town again! I am safe, and well, and living it up!

Saying Goodbye...

This week brought more surprises than I had anticipated. On top of the stress of preparing for a move out of the country, packing, shopping and saying goodbye to my entire family and friends for two years, my grandmother passed away on Tuesday. It was very unexpected, and the entire family is undoubtedly in shock. I hadn't planned on seeing everyone again so soon, let alone seeing them for something like this. Tonight is grandma's funeral. We will be holding a candle light vigil for her. I have to consider myself so fortunate to have spent so much time this last year with my entire family. I believe that God works in mysterious ways... and although I will miss my grandmother very much, I know in my heart that she would want me to keep going. Grandma was tough, but she was strong. I admired her for her ability to fight with everything she had, even until the very end.
Needless to say, this has been a very difficult week, in many different ways. Tomorrow is my last day in Washington... I still have so much to do. The good news is, my luggage is just 2 lbs under the weight limit... so as long as I can fight the urge to put more stuff into my suitcase, I know I will have enough things to get me through to winter.
To my family, I wish you all the best of luck in the coming months. Stay strong, and remember to say "I love you." We don't say it enough. To my mom and dad, I love you more than anything or anyone in the world. Thank you for being my rock and for giving me everything... certainly much more than I deserve. To my friends, although I won't be here, I won't truly be gone. Remember, I will miss you all as much as you miss me and surely more... To everyone, please write. I don't care what you write me, I just love to hear from everyone. So with that, I will see you all in two years! I will try to write again as soon as I can to let you know I'm getting settled in.

Thank You

To all my family, and close family friends who came to say goodbye yesterday, I just wanted to say thank you. It means so much to me that I could say goodbye to everyone before I left, as hard as that is. You have all done so much to help me get this far, and I couldn't have done it without you. I have lots of pictures to take with me, but remember I can always use a few more! Don't forget to send me as many as you can over the next two years... weddings, birthdays, thanksgiving, christmas and any other holiday or family event that I should have been there... please send me pictures! I had such a nice time eating all your tasty foods, and getting to laugh (and cry) with you all one more time. I know you are all worried about me, but I know I will be fine. I know that things will be both exciting and meaningful. I may miss a lot here... but you will all miss a lot there. I love you all, and thank you again for EVERYTHING!

13 days and counting...

Yesterday was my goodbye party that several of my friends coordinated to throw for me. Props to Steph, Heather, Stephen, Erica and Andy. I appreciated the warm send off very much. I'm glad so many people could make it, and a little sad that I didn't get to say goodbye to everyone. As it stands, this week will be my last week of work and I will have a full week to boot. I feel like I have too much to do and not enough time!
I got a chance to meet another volunteer from Washington today. I had a good afternoon (considering the fact that I was still very tired from the party). We hung out for a little while at the SuperMall, and ate dinner together. It makes me feel a little better that I at least know someone else who is going from Washington.
I also bought a few small items that I still needed. I picked up a spill stop for my nalgen bottle, and a luggage scale to weigh my bag. I don't want to go over in weight limit, as the fees are too high, and that is just more stuff I will have to lug around all over the Azeri country-side. I've been reading a lot about the packing lists and suggestions of current volunteers. So far I'm a little worried about my actual suitcase, as it isn't flexible or discrete. My luggage is plastic and fire engine red, and I have no clue where I will put it once I get settled in country. At this point, I still have almost no clothing appropriate for hand-washing, line drying, and conservative... but somehow still breathable in the unbearable heat. Mom and I will spend my last week getting me all geared to go.

At this point, I still need to obtain the following items:

A leatherman tool
Thermal unders (light-weight/silk)
Winter socks
Durable shoes for walking long distances, (of the non-sneaker type)
Flash Drive (this is required)
Sunglasses
A battery charger (preferably solar powered)
Electric converter
Clothing space saver bags (with the one way valve to seal out air and compact your luggage)
Lightweight/compact sleeping bag
Mini maglight
Quick drying towels (they prevent mold)
Digital watch with timer on it
Portable/Mini DVD player
Skirts, shoes, cardigans, and other misc clothing items for work
Swimsuit and underwear

I'm probably going to have to ship myself a lot of items. As much as I appreciate all the gifts people keep giving me, I won't be able to take everything with me. I can only have 80 lbs of luggage. So, I found out that USPS.com will send you Flat Rate boxes for free (I ordered 10 this week) and it only costs $37 to send the box to anywhere in the world. It can weigh up to 20 lbs, and the boxes are pretty good size. I think I will send myself one ahead of time in order to keep from having to pack everything with me. And yes, I will have to pay to receive my mail/packages. That is standard for all Azeri post offices. It will cost me a few bucks to receive the packages, but will save me from having to go buy certain items... it's a fair trade.
The hardest part is that I will have to lug everything from my training site, to my village site by myself. Which means everything sent to me in training will be more weight I will have to carry across country. So, as I will appreciate the care packages, please refrain from sending too much stuff during the first three months. We just found out that the M-Bag is no longer in effect either. (It was designed to send books and educational materials around the world for about 10 bucks, and without it I'm looking at 37 just to get the new Harry Potter). I'm sure it will all work out, but I won't really know much until I get there. I will post here once I know more about the mailing situation.

In the mean time... I'm going to attempt a "dry run" at packing probably tomorrow. I want to make sure I'm not going over! I need to revise my packing list, yet again...

Azerbaijan in the News

Azerbaijan is finally being mentioned in the news... unfortunately the news may or may not be what most people would want to hear before heading over there for two years.

According to ABC news, Russian President Vladimir Putin made the proposal Thursday to President Bush to use Azerbaijan as an alternative site for U.S. plans to deploy missile-defense elements in Eastern European countries. Originally proposed by the US to be housed in the Czech Republic or Poland, the missile system would be used to defend the US in the event of an attack from Iran or North Korea. Russia is uncomfortable with the idea of a US missile defence system in Poland, as they contend that putting the system in Eastern Europe would mean it could be used against Russia's missiles, thereby undermining the balance of power in Europe. Putin proposed using an existing Russian radar station in North Eastern Azerbaijan as an alternative.

Azerbaijani Foreign Minister, Elmar Mammadyarov, said Friday that Azerbaijan is "ready to consider proposed joint U.S.-Russian use of a radar facility in the country as part of a missile defense system." Stating that the proposal "can only bring more stability into the region because it can lead to more predictable actions in the region."

"At this time, Azerbaijan's position, which is supported by the United States and Russia, is that it's necessary to start consultations in a two- or three-sided format. I can say that Azerbaijan is ready for such consultations," the foreign minister said at a briefing.

Despite the open dialogue regarding the housing of the system in Azerbaijan, NATO Secretary General Jaap de Hoop Scheffer stated "It's a bit early to judge if an Azeri radar could be the answer to the threat... it's a bit close to the rogue states we are discussing."

(News courtesy of ABC News http://abcnews.go.com/International/wireStory?id=3257312)

So what does this mean for me? At the moment nothing. It does not change my status or desire to serve as a Peace Corps volunteer. At this time, the US, Russia, and Azerbaijan are in a discussion phase. We will just have to wait and see. I believe that now, more than ever, the Peace Corps presence in Azerbaijan will be needed. I can only hope to show a sincere desire to improve relations between America and Azerbaijan.

Euphoria!

Here is a bit of background information. Before I started working for Rainier Pacific, I didn't have dental insurance.

Timeline of events:

• I was mailed a medical/dental packet in November.
• I couldn't get a dental exam until January 2nd, but knew that I had 4 cavities to be filled and made the second appointment for February 6th and 7th.
• I had the exam, and it turns out I needed 11 fillings and 4 wisdom teeth pulled. Ok, lots of work, but manageable right? Well not so much...
• February, I had the first appointment for my dental work. We get part way through the dental work on the first day and find out I need a root canal. Day two we find out I need a second root canal. I spent a week at the dentist instead of two days... I ended up spending around 15 hours in the dentist chair. But, 9 fillings later, two root canals with fillings, and wisdom teeth gone I finally overnighted my dental packet to Peace Corps.
• On March 10th I got a letter from Peace Corps. It was a temporary denial for the two teeth that had root canals. No one had told me that if you had a root canal you have to have a crown. My dentist did a really nice filling on each (composit) so that I wouldn't have to spend the money on the crowns. At this point my very loving and generous grandparents had already paid for all the rest of the dental work! The last thing I needed was crowns added on to of the cost of everything else... but nonetheless, Peace Corps wanted crowns. So I made my appointment for May, since I had to save up for it this time for $1400-1700 "depending on complications."
• So, May 11th comes, and they make the temporaries for my crowns. I have to come back May 23rd for the permanents to be set. The permanents are set, I end up only having to pay $1350 for the crowns, and all I need now is a letter from the dentist confirming that the work is complete.
• They didn't do the letter ahead of time to have it ready on the 23rd, so now they have to mail it out to me. It just needed to have one sentence that said "the crowns on tooth number 11 and 23 have been completed." That's all I needed. A week goes by and I still didn't receive the letter, so I called... they forgot. So I finally get the letter in the mail, and sent it in overnight to peace corps on Saturday June 2nd. Monday I called to confirm they received the packet, and that there was no more work to be done.

Today, finally, after 6 months of this, my dental clearance was granted! My status was updated online as complete! I don't think I could be any more relieved or excited. That was the last of what I was waiting on! The battle with the dentist is over!

Where in the World is Azerbaijan?

So the most common questions my friends and family are asking me is... "where is Azerbaijan?" While you might think that question should hypothetically be easy to answer, it is anything but. Geographically, it is located North of Iran, South of Russia, and it boarders the Caspian Sea to the East, and Georgia and Armenia to the West. Ok, so Iran scares the crap out of everyone when I say that, and most people think Russia is really far North... and seriously, if you can't find Azerbaijan on a map, you also probably don't know Georgia is a country and not just one of the US States. Ok, so better to explain it by continent location. It is in the south-eastern most portion of Europe, or the south-western most portion of Asia, or the northern most portion of the Middle East.
So take your pick. According to map makers, it is all three. The geographical nexus of Eurasia lying in the Caucasus. The Caucasus or Caucasia is a region in Eurasia bordered on the south by Iran, on the southwest by Turkey, on the west by the Black Sea, on the east by the Caspian Sea, and on the north by Russia. The Caucasus includes the Caucasus Mountains and surrounding lowlands. The Caucasus Mountains are commonly reckoned as a dividing line between Asia and Europe, and territories in Caucasia are variably considered to be in one or both continents.

It will be very interesting to see how these cultures collide...

Where is your Salam?

It's official... 19 days before I leave the country for the greatest adventure I have ever known. You would think that after studying abroad twice that I wouldn't be hesitating about embarking on the next great adventure. Part of me is more excited than I can put into words... it's the other part that keeps asking me not to forget to see the river in Orting, eat Portuguese spare ribs, and read one more book in English before I go. Don't get me wrong, I can't wait. I have been preparing for service for a very long time... but now that my departure is on the horizon, I know that it will be two years before I will see my friends and family again.
My biggest fear? Oddly enough it isn't being attacked, robbed, lost, or having to eat a sheep's brain on new years day, but instead that everyone at home other than my mother will forget me after I am gone. We all think we are the center of the world when we are here, but when we are gone... will they remember to write? Will they send you something on your birthday? Christmas? One can only hope to get a letter or two once in a while after training is complete.
Alas, I must look to the rising sun, and know that a new day is dawning; and I will seize it with everything I am.

For now, my biggest concerns are packing issues. There will still be time for goodbyes later.